Kapa Moe

TEXTILE GALLERY   

DEC. 21, 2005 – APRIL 9, 2006

Kapa moe or large sleeping coverings were most commonly made from the inner bark of the stems of the wauke(Broussonetiapapyrifera) plant. Hawaiian kapa moe were often constructed of several large sheets of kapa sewn together along one edge using a twisted kapa tape, constituting a kuina kapa moe. One or more layers would be used depending on the weather. Traditionally, the upper layer or kilohana was the most beautifully decorated.

Wauke, commonly referred to as paper mulberry, was cultivated specifically for making kapa. The inner bark was beaten twice, first with around wooden beater or hohoa on a stone anvil (pohaku kua), and then with a square beater (i‘ekuku) on a wooden anvil or kua. Intricately incised patterns from nature on the i‘e kuku created elaborate impressions known as “watermarks.” These “watermarks” created distinct designs, and also aided in softening the fabric which provided extended flexibility of the cloth. This distinct feature of Hawaiian kapa was even further embellished through a variety of surface designs.

Combinations of predominantly geometric motifs on the kilohana display striking, bold expressions of color. The 19th century kapa moe presented in this exhibition incorporate a variety of surface designs. One method was through the use of bamboo stamps or ohe kapala. These narrow strips of bamboo were incised with abstract shapes. Dipped in dyes, these were painstakingly printed side by side, cleverly combined to create a rhythmic repeat of overlapping and intertwined patterns. Stencils cut out of mai‘a or banana leaf were also used for rendering simple motifs. Panels of colored kapa, or bits of red cotton or wool fabrics were introduced to the top surface of uncolored kapa, often resulting in popular ohelohelo or rose tones. A few of these kapa moe have a remarkable resemblance to appliquéd quilt motifs. Imported blankets and woven cloth soon replaced the need for kapa in Hawaii.

Journey back in time as we reveal the Academy’s splendid and majestic kapa moe, a cherished legacy of kapa makers of the past.